Flavored salts, in my view, simply clutter the kitchen counter. If you have good sea salt and high-quality herbs or spices on hand, there’s no trick to creating your own. But there are exceptions, like this one, new to our pantries, from Oaxaca, Mexico, which combines salt with pequín and arból chiles and dried, crushed maguey worms. Yes, of course, dust the tangy, earthily assertive and fragrant rust-colored spice on the edge of your margarita glass, but also consider it for seasoning corn on the cob, ceviche or grilled shrimp. Christopher Kimball is selling it on his Milk Street website.

Sal de Gusano, $18.95 for 2.3 ounces, store.177milkstreet.com.